The city's hottest new spots are all about seafood, sustainability and a whole lot of pasta
IL COVO
A new Italian place in Little Italy? Ma no! It feels almost quaint — but then again, old-school charm saturates this small-plates-oriented restaurant, the first solo outing from Buca alumni Ryan Campbell and Giuseppe Marchesini, like espresso saturates a tiramisu. Starting with the dungeon-like front door, Il Covo is all old-world romance, and the menu sticks close enough to tradition to satisfy purists while making calculated overtures toward modernity. The most wooden-spoon-happy nonna in the land couldn’t find fault with Campbell’s incredible seafood linguini, which piles the freshest of clams, calamari, mussels and scallops onto pasta sourced from Abruzzo. And while it’s not Italian tradition to stuff a tramezzino sandwich with scallop and shrimp, add a mossy coat of chopped chives, glob some smoked-lemon aioli on there for dipping and maybe slap an extra spoonful of caviar on top for kicks — it probably damn well should be. 585 College, at Clinton, 416-530-7585, ilcovo.ca TUK TUK CANTEEN Cambodian food is under-represented in Toronto, but it has found a champion in chef Mike Tan, who formerly ran the kitchen at the Contender on Dundas. At this spare re-imagining of the Rude Boy diner, he turns out plates inspired by his parents’ recipes; hits include lemongrass, kaffir and lime salmon tartare and crisp wings with a sheen of zippy, savoury lime and fish sauce glaze. It’s an unabashedly fun crash course – especially if you wash everything down with a pitcher or three of their punchy big-batch cocktails. 397 Roncesvalles, at Howard Park, instagram.com/tuktukcanteen ASSEMBLY CHEF’S HALL With this much star power under one roof – it’s basically the Traveling Wilburys – Assembly was pretty much a guaranteed hit from the beginning. Established hot spots like DaiLo, Shoushin, Khao San Road, Ramen Isshin, Cherry Street Bar-B-Que and more all leapt at Andreas Antoniou’s offer to bring their stuff to a downtown lunch crowd hungry for novelty and atmosphere. Even if you’ve frequented the original restaurants, surprises abound, like smoky okra at Mira Mira, from freshman chef Amira Becarevic, and the unearthly burger at Ivana Raca and Brad Smith’s Resto Boemo (Raca once looked me dead in the eyes and told me it was the best in town, and woman wasn’t blowin’ smoke). 111 Richmond West, at York, 647-557-5993, assemblychefshall.com GOLD STANDARD Is there a simpler pleasure in the world – whether you’re feeling daisy-fresh or brain-full-o’-pigeon-shit hungover – than a good breakfast sandwich? Unless, of course, we’re talking about a dirty flat-top burger. The team from The Federal mercifully doesn’t make you choose at their sunny takeout window behind the Reunion Island café on Roncy. Even the standard breakfast sammy — kale or bacon, pick your poison — comes with pickles and aioli along with the standard egg, a stroke of genius that lends both a satisfying complexity and a dose of fast-food-y nostalgia. But there’s also a smashed, mustard-grilled patty on a potato roll – dubbed the Telway Burger, in homage to a Detroit diner – that’s just the perfect size, at 2.5 ounces, to let you justify ordering a burg and a breakfast sandwich. (I did it. It was awesome.) 385 Roncesvalles, at Neepawa, thefed.ca/goldstandard ALOETTE It’s hard not to imagine Patrick Kriss’s diner-inspired follow-up to Alo (the No. 1 restaurant in Canada for two years running – maybe you’ve heard of it?) struggling at least a little to live up to the bar set by its prom-king older sibling. And I must admit, when I first snagged a coveted spot in those narrow banquettes last fall, I felt like something about Kriss’s steakhouse-by-way-of-bistro menu wasn’t quite gelling – but I also trusted that the chef, known for his quasi-monastic dedication and focus, was going to keep refining until everything was to his exacting standards. And he’s nailed it: Coupled with Alo’s pitch-perfect service, the menu at Aloette – from supple scallops to meaty fried smelt and a burnished-cheese burger – makes for comfort-food nirvana. And be sure to try the seasonal stuff: Kriss’s dish of buttery-sweet wedges of fried squash, recently retired for the warmer months, is so good, I would almost will us back into winter (gasp!) just so I could eat it again. 163 Spadina, at Queen, 416-260-3444, aloetterestaurant.com FAMIGLIA BALDASSARRE Does Baldassarre even count as a restaurant? (If there are two dozen people queued up out front four days of the week at lunchtime, does it really matter?) Pastaiolo Leandro Baldassarre supplies some of the finest kitchens in town with fresh noodles, but you can cut out the middleman at a marble lunch counter just inside his Geary Avenue facility, where he’ll fill a takeout container with tagliatelle and housemade ragu, sunny spinach and ricotta ravioli, duck cappellacci, and any number of other daily delights for only $12. Screw candlelight and a bottle of wine – between the top-flight quality and secret-clubhouse atmosphere, this might be one of the most memorable Italian dining experiences in town. 122 Geary, at Westmoreland, 647-293-5395, famigliabaldassarre.com GIULIETTA Much wailing and gnashing of teeth followed the closure of Rob Rossi’s last restaurant, but it looks like the Bestellen was truly yet to come. (Hold for applause.) A collaboration with L’Unita’s David Minicucci, Giulietta jettisons its predecessor’s rib-eyes and burgers for a sprightly menu of veggie- and seafood-forward Italian fare. At the back of the long and low space (designer Guido Costantino reportedly lowered the ceiling for a cozier vibe), Rossi’s kitchen turns out impeccably handled grilled octopus slathered in bright salmoriglio, a genius spin on classic radicchio salad with sweet-n-sour green apple and earthy hazelnuts, and butter-smothered little sleeves of taleggio-filled pasta. I’m willing to bet you won’t even miss the steak. 972 College, at Rusholme, 416-964-0606, giu.ca KU-KUM At his intimate midtown kitchen, Odawa chef Joseph Shawana merges the techniques he learned over 10 years in Toronto restaurants (from pubs to fine dining to a corporate gig at Rogers Centre) with the cuisine of his heritage, putting locally sourced ingredients and game meats front and centre. First things first: Yes, this may be the only place in town to serve seal, bringing Ku-Kum the kind of free publicity that only overblown, myopic protests can provide. The much-ballyhooed seal tartare didn’t really turn my crank – it was akin to an aquatic Vegemite, musky and bitter. But seal loin, waved over a flame? Delicate as a rare steak, with a slight steely tang – and a fine foil to sweet beets and maple syrup. Other highlights: Killer smoked trout, pâté with bannock, and a rich chocolate mousse dotted with flowers and gold leaf. Not everything was note-perfect – an underdone parsnip here, a just-okay caribou hamburger steak there – but Shawana’s skill and singular approach make Ku-Kum a truly unique dining experience in a city that’s seemingly seen it all. 581 Mount Pleasant, at Manor, 416-519-2638, kukum-kitchen.com SKIPPA Harbord lost Yunaghi last year, but Ian Robinson is keeping the neighbourhood’s upscale-Japanese cred intact with this unassuming omakase spot. The Sushi Kaji alum puts all the skills he learned under Mitsuhiro Kaji to excellent use, showcasing selections like sea bream, grouper and ishidai imported from Fukuoka. (I looked up the English name of the latter fish, and it was barred knifejaw – what a thrill to be eating something I’d never seen outside of Animal Crossing.) Service is warm, making this a great entry point for newbies to the omakase experience, down to the server telling you whether to “dip or no dip” each piece in soy sauce. And although the sushi rightly gets tons of attention, apps like nasu, a little roulade of eggplant in a ginger-packed broth, and tsukune, a chicken meatball on a bed of grains, were so good that I hungered for main-sized versions. Though, to be honest, I also hungered in general: If I had one tiny fishbone to pick with Skippa, it’s that my dining companion and I ate an omakase menu each, split four apps and still left ready to crush a cheeseburger. (Props for not filling us up on rice, at least?) 379 Harbord, at Roxton, 416-535-8181, skippa.ca CITY BETTY All Alex Molitz needed to do to sell the Danforth locals on this soothing, sage-green new spot was put a bunch of carrots onto a plate. The OC, a delicious tangle of shaved, seared and puréed heirloom carrots with an unexpected smear of chimichurri, is one of the breakout hits of the former Farmhouse Tavern chef’s “seven season” menu (finally, a place that acknowledges Toronto’s second, third and fourth winters). As is farm-to-table custom, the veggies star here, playing off one another in novel but pleasingly simple combinations: think pea purée (puréed anything is pretty much guaranteed to be good here, FYI) with roasted mushroom and California-made crescenza cheese on Blackbird sourdough, or a dill-cucumber salad that just screams springtime, made meatier with fried artichoke hearts. But there’s still indulgence to be had, in the form of a salty, crisp-crusted burger with sour cherry chutney and massive wedge fries (actually each about a third of a potato) and a brunch slate of bennies and house-cured slab bacon. 1352 Danforth, at Linsmore, 647-271-3949, citybetty.com DRAKE MINI BAR Despite the Drake’s ubiquity, it’s tough to divine exactly what its brand as a restaurant is, outside of “American food, but fancier.” But the brand-spankin’-new Mini Bar, across the lobby from One Fifty in Adelaide Place, sees the company merge its strengths – a vast culinary brain trust, interior design and visual art curation – with a welcome idiosyncratic twist. First, there’s an indoor “patio” space with a geometric wooden pergola and palm fronds that should keep the fruity drinks (from a broad and impressively solid cocktail menu) a-flowin’ year-round. Then there’s a seafood-forward menu, spearheaded by One Fifty exec chef Jon Pong, that features the Drake Commissary’s endlessly noshable cured fish, breads and spreads, plus fried cod, venison tartare and a trout crudo with salmon roe that will each last about 10 seconds after you finish taking your Insta snaps. For both the financial district and the Drake, it’s a real breath of fresh air. 150 York, at Adelaide, thedrake.ca/drakeminibar SENATOR WINEBAR Leave it to the Senator, Toronto’s oldest diner, to go even more old-school for its upstairs spinoff: the tiny Senator Winebar, packed with ornate antiques and an old Heintzman piano, is the kind of time-worn bistro you’d find off some decrepit stairwell in Montmartre, rather than spitting distance from Yonge-Dundas Square. But it would all just be window dressing were it not for head chef Paul Laforet, a veteran of upscale-health-food spot Ursa (who’s probably relieved he now gets to cook with all the butter his heart desires), and Lorenzo Fattò Offidani, who followed his passion for old-school American cocktail culture onto the Orient Express (where he previously tended bar) and all the way to Toronto from Italy. Grab some savoury mushroom toast or coq au vin and something amaretto-spiked, and let the rustle of the street fade away behind the sound of the live piano – it’s a heck of a lot cheaper than a ticket to Paris. 249 Victoria, at Dundas, 416-364-7517, thesenator.com/wine-bar This post "Toronto's best new restaurants 2018" was originally seen on nowtoronto.com by Natalia Manzocco
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Canada’s Two Cultures: English Toronto and French Montreal/Quebec City
Canada always has been and always will be two cultures, separate English-speaking and French-speaking peoples. This periodically causes anxiety among Canadians as competing visions of togetherness are put to a test. The differences are also part of the reason why Canada has an enduring fascination for travelers. From time to time, French-speaking separatists in Quebec Province have promoted referendums calling for the province to become an independent country. A referendum in 1980 lost 3-to-2, and in 1995 lost by only 1 percent of the voters. For many Canadians, separation would be a darkly anxious event, as they contemplate the future of their society. Separation would be passionate and deeply traumatic. For a traveler, the tension between the English and French in Canada creates a cultural energy, a dynamism that gives the country a special appeal and makes it different. The dispute has been simmering since the English General Wolfe defeated the French General Montcalm on the Plains of Abraham outside Quebec City in 1759. If you want to contemplate this Canadian culture, a suitable plan would be to sample the major cities, starting with predominantly English Toronto, then to French-English Montreal, and finally all-French Quebec City. The transport mode of transport to use while you ponder Canada ‘s identity is the entity that has tied the country together–the railroad. VIA Rail service can take you in first-class comfort between Toronto and Montreal, then between Montreal and Quebec City. A Canadian airline, such as Air Canada or Westjet, can also whisk you in and out of these cities. While you experience the special attractions in each of these great cities, you may experience an underlying meditation about what it means to be a Canadian. Toronto Toronto is the #1 visitor destination in Canada. Travelers come to see this temple of skyscraper commerce, view the theatre, and marvel at such wonders as one of the world’s tallest freestanding structures–the CN Tower. Be sure to travel to the top of this tower on the speedy elevators and get a view of the downtown buildings. Greater Toronto is the most populated area in Canada, with roughly 2.5 million residents. Near the CN Tower, allow time to walk the Harbourfront, a lovely outdoor space devoted to cultural activities. Stop in at York Quay Centre to see contemporary, working craftsmen, such as potters and glass blowers. Toronto strikes a traveler as a city more focused on the business of today and tomorrow than on the legacy of the language past, which absorbs Montreal. Both Toronto and Montreal have vast, underground “complexes” that are sophisticated northern-climate escapes from the wind-chill winters. A traveler who sees these miles of underground is reminded of the identity that Canadian tourism would most like to obliterate–that Canada is one of the places from where the cold weather comes. Toronto has large, interior atrium spaces, such as the Galleria at BCE Place or the lobby of the CBC Building. The Toronto and Montreal subways are marvels of efficiency. Toronto has managed to locate some housing in its downtown area, so the city remains alive in the evening and on weekends. The market in the St. Lawrence neighborhood is an example. Intact neighborhoods are a characteristic of Toronto. The Chinatown tea shop Ten Ren’s on Dundas Street, the second-hand garments at Kensington Market, the brick houses of Cabbagetown on Metcalf between Carlton and Winchester, and the youngish feel of Queen Street, home of City TV, are all worth exploring. Toronto is a major center of theatre, surpassed in the English-speaking world only by London and New York. Vital musicals enjoy long runs at new and historic theatres. There is also a strong tradition of satire and comedy, especially at the Second City theater company. One biting skit in an earlier presentation I attended years ago suggested the English-French tensions. The skit concerned a champion hockey player from Quebec Province who played for the top team, the Toronto Maple Leafs. The hockey player goes back to his province to visit his mother after the winning season in Toronto. The mother can’t focus on his achievements; rather, she is stressed by his sacrilegious act of playing hockey for the infidels, the Torontonians. Another witticism at Second City that night: If Quebec ever pulled out of Canada, they should be allowed back in every fourth year, so their athletes can help Canada in the Winter Olympics. The shows will change, but the wit remains constant. Another cultural venue in Toronto at which to ponder the Canadian character is the Art Gallery of Ontario, which is a major museum rather than a gallery. Here you can see a permanent exhibit of the Group of Seven artists. Early in the 20th century this group of painters forged a new consciousness of the Canadian landscape, depicted with vibrant colors and painterly technique that challenged the academic art of the era. Discovering in art Canada ‘s rugged wilderness was an important factor in the country’s maturation and psychological development of its own national identity. Both Toronto and Montreal are relatively safe places to walk at night. Toronto is said to have one-sixth the homicides of Detroit. This is a land of few handguns. In Toronto the language of choice is clear–it’s English. Some English-speaking people from Montreal moved to Toronto in the time of troubles because they were more comfortable as language pressure mounted in Montreal. However, Toronto also prides itself on accommodating foreign tongues, beyond the French that is an official language of the country. Toronto claims to deliver its city services in multiple languages. Immigrants speaking Chinese and Italian are major components of the Toronto mix. In contrast with Toronto’s comfortable accommodation of French, Chinese, and other language groups, Montreal has strived from time to time to require use of French. An acquaintance described how, at one time, her home tax bill came in French and would be sent in English only if a special effort were made. The bus driver may be less inclined to offer you information if you ask in English rather than French. A movie theater owner in Montreal described to me how the Language Police, prompted by a citizen complaint, came to his theater to indicate that the English word “cash” was on his tickets. He had 60 days to remove “cash” or he would face a $350 fine. The character of a Torontonian is also different from that of a Montrealer. Toronto gets ribbed a little for its Victorian primness, its waspish reserve. One senses the suppressed rage of upright morality behind the moniker Toronto the Good. Toronto has been called “New York run by the Swiss.” However, Toronto boasts many amenities that will insure its premier place as a travel destination. The city’s expertise in hostelries and dining is epitomized by the Four Seasons Hotel with its five-diamond status. Montreal Montreal exudes joie de vivre, the Gallic assertiveness that makes French culture so delicious. This city is a daughter of France, France without jet lag, Paris minus the rudeness, a city with a soul, a place with European atmosphere and North American casualness. Montreal is the largest French-speaking city outside France. Most English-speaking travelers who arrive in Montreal come to celebrate the motto, Vive la difference. An interesting place to start here is the Cirque du Soleil circus performance. The imaginative performance of the dancers and acrobats proclaims a zest for life. Cirque du Soleil is one of the most successful cultural exports of Montreal. Itinerant companies of Cirque may be seen in major U.S. cities. Resident Cirque companies in Las Vegas deliver experiences that pack in the crowds night after night, providing some of the least-derivative entertainments you will ever experience. Cirque shows in Montreal, Las Vegas, and elsewhere are far more than circus acts, and viewers tend to describe them as spiritualistic dance expressions of the joy of life. Montreal is a pleasing city to walk. The downtown has its handsome enclosed spaces, as in Toronto. Montreal’s parallel to the Galleria is the World Trade Centre, with its huge atrium and sea goddess statue above a pool. Be sure to tramp over the heights of the city, on Mont Royal Park, to catch the views at the belvedere of the chalet. Then meander in Old Montreal, near the waterfront, with a stop for a glass of wine at the sidewalk cafes on Place Jacques Cartier. Meditate on the Catholic presence inside the Notre Dame Basilica. Peruse the neighborhoods, such as Chinatown and Plateau Mont-Royal, the latter a fashionable milieu for outdoor cafes. Explore the more than 20 miles of underground city. The services and goods offered here are so varied and complete that it is said you could live in the underground city from birth to death without ever having to leave. Savor the view of the city from Ile Sainte-Helene in the river (get there via subway to Parc Jean-Drapeau station, then walk out to see the panorama alongside the huge Alexander Calder sculpture). Public art is present in large amounts because one percent of each construction budget must be spent on art. Raymond Mason’s white “The Illuminated Crowd” sculpture in front of the Banque Nationale de Paris is a striking example. Montreal is a much older city than Toronto. In 1992 Montreal celebrated its 350th anniversary. A clock on the St. Sulpice Seminary has been keeping the time since 1700. One of the enjoyable places in Montreal at which to contemplate Canada is the McCord Museum of Canadian History, which has both permanent and changing exhibits. During one of my visits in the past, for example, the changing exhibit was a series of composite photos of Montreal in the 1870s, by William Notman. He portrayed the Snowshoe Club, depicting the hundreds of men who would don snowshoes for social outings in that era. The McCord’s permanent exhibits on Canada’s Amerindians is informative. A chamber music concert during my visit provided aural stimulation to parallel the visual pleasures of the afternoon. Montreal is famous for its annual cycle of festivals. The summer begins with a bang during the international fireworks festival. Festivals follow celebrating jazz, comedy, and cinema. Overall, Quebec Province is rich in natural resources, especially hydroelectric power. It is also the largest province in the extent of its land. The high rate of birth among the French Catholics has contributed to a large population, about 7.9 million, out of the total Canadian population of 33.5 million. The first priority of these large families was to feed their children, with extended formal education seen as a luxury. The educational system among the French in Quebec has also changed markedly since about 1970. Formerly, a bright French Catholic boy, educated in the classics, might proceed, if not to the priesthood, then to the professions of law, medicine, or other intellectual pursuits. The world of business was seen as a tawdry place, better left to the English and Scots, who made fortunes and dominated the scene. All this has now changed, as the French Canadians compete in all fields. Quebec City The walled bluffs of Quebec City were–and still are–one of the strongest natural fortifications in the Americas, commanding the St. Lawrence River. Be sure to see the sound-and-light show in the Musee du Fort, where a diorama and narration depict the comings and goings of French, English, and American troops here in the first two hundred years of the city’s life. Then walk along the boardwalk Promenade by the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac and climb finally to the top of the Citadel, which is still manned by an elite Canadian garrison, whose soldiers have served under the U.N. From the Citadel, with its historic cannons, you can imagine how formidable a defended Quebec could be. The business worth fighting for in the early days was furs. By the end of the 18th century, there were 2,600 fur traders shipping a half-million beaver and deer pelts annually from Quebec . To get a profile of the fortifications, cross the river on the ferry from Place Royale to Levis and back. Then stroll the Lower Town, full of restaurants, shops, and special attractions. Rue Saint-Paul has numerous antique, art, and craft shops. You’ll find exquisite hand-knit wool sweaters. Galleries display prominent Quebec artists, with some of their finer paintings reproduced also as cards. A major museum, called the Musee de la Civilisation, has both permanent and changing exhibits. One of the interesting permanent exhibits shows the collective memory of Quebec. The Upper Town, on top of the bluff, has walks as intriguing as the Lower Town. In Upper Town stop in at Boutique Sachem to see Canadian Indian crafts. Jazz fans gather nightly around a piano bar at the Clarendon Hotel. The most celebrative times here are a summer fest and a winter carnival. To get a sense of the countryside, rent a car and drive out to Ile d’Orleans, the food basket and summer cottage getaway place for the city. Small farmers on Ile d’Orleans have firm opinions on the taste of their strawberries as compared with those of nearby Beaupre. At an island village, St. Jean, river pilots of the St. Lawrence have a cemetery running to the water. Red-metal roofed houses and numerous church spires dot the birch-wooded landscape. Fall colors are ravishing. Thirty-seven families here have ancestors going back to the 17th century. The power of the Church is ever present in the region, and Quebec City is sometimes called the “City of Many Steeples.” A few miles beyond Ile d’Orleans, in Beaupre, the massive Basilica Sainte-Anne is a major Fatima-like pilgrimage site, piled high with crutches left after miracle cures. Quebec City is a more relaxed and restful place than Montreal, more provincial and quaint, relatively remote. The people of this provincial capital are blessed with the stability of assured government employment. On the language issue, Quebec City is also more at ease because it can afford to be. In Quebec City about 96 percent of the people are French speakers, so the language issue is decided, as it is for English in Toronto. Moreover, the French were here first, before the English, so there is some cultural security in the primacy of French. There is less of the tension that is evident in Montreal. In Montreal, speaking English is a political statement, an uneasy concession to the outsider from the dominant culture. In Quebec City, speaking English is a transparent gesture to accommodate the traveler, the lifeblood of the tourism economy. The culinary legacy of France, so much in evidence in Montreal and in Quebec City, is one aspect of the cultural division about which there is unanimous appreciation. Start your culinary research in Montreal, where the many French restaurants are not necessarily expensive. In my introduction to French Canadian cuisine, both the rabbit and the salmon salad were delicious. On another occasion I savored a lobster bisque, followed by the lobster itself, from the waters off eastern Canada. The Railroad The railroad offers an opportunity to see the Canadian landscape at a pleasing pace, without the stress of having to drive your car. Birch forests, corn or hay fields, and many swift rivers characterize the terrain. If the country ever actually separated, the question of who would own the huge investments in hydro power in Quebec Province and who would pay what portions of the billions national debt would be among the thorniest issues to be negotiated. Service on the train is genial, especially in first class. Take the later afternoon trains between these major eastern cities. You glide along, lulled by the click of the rails, drinking your wine, lingering over the sunset, choosing from among three entrees for dinner. If Amtrak could emulate these rail standards, rail travel in the United States might have a brighter tourism future. The great hotels built by the historic Canadian railroad are excellent bases from which to explore Canada. The Fairmont Royal York in Toronto and the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth in Montreal are located immediately adjacent to the train stations, conveniently providing lodging in the downtown area, mercifully close to the trains during the cold season. The Fairmont Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City ranks as one of the most romantic hotels in North America, perched high on a bluff as a castle. It makes one think of Ludwig of Bavaria’s famous “Disneyland” castle, Neuschwanstein, transposed and modified to a North American setting. Also, all three cities have experienced a boom in new boutique hotels, and so the choice of accommodations is considerable. A traveler coming to Canada from the United States views the country and the language struggle of its people with both affection and concern. The border between Canada and the United States is said to be the longest undefended border in the world, no small achievement. Canada is larger than all of Europe and larger than the United States,even though the country has only 33 million people, compared to 311.5 million in the United States. If the United States is a melting pot, Canada is a salad bowl. The ingredients in Canada will remain distinct, if not separate. Only the Canadians can decide whether the country will continue to be served up to the traveler as a single delicious dish. This article " Canada’s Two Cultures: English Toronto and French Montreal/Quebec City" was originally publish onFoster Travel Publishing by Lee Foster
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